¿Por qué la moda en los políticos españoles sigue siendo casta?

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Publicado en Trendencias

Por Natxo Sobrado @NatxoSobrado

27 de mayo de 2015

Clásicos, conservadores y sin riesgo. La palabra moda está muy alejada del vestuario de los políticos españoles. En el país donde una marca logró exportar la revolución del fast fashion a todo el mundo, la política sigue al margen de las novedades de una industria clave para la economía española. Las últimas tendencias asustan a una clase que mantiene los viejos clichés del pasado en unos trajes convertidos en uniformes guardados en formol. Los nuevos partidos lejos de aportar un cambio drástico se acaban sumando a muchas de estas prácticas.

Nuevos planes, idénticas estrategias

“A partir de los 80 hay una búsqueda hacia el centro, en la que empiezan a uniformarse. Izquierda y derecha empiezan a vestir igual, y además por desidia”

Después de semanas de inagotable campaña electoral, España se encuentra ante un panorama político distinto respecto al de las últimas elecciones municipales y autonómicas de 2011. ¿Y en la moda? ¿Ha cambiado algo en estos últimos años o es el momento de volver a escuchar a Nacho Vegas? “Depende”, afirma Patrycia Centeno, asesora de estética política y corporativa, y autora del libro ‘Política y Moda, la imagen del poder’. “Yo creo que antes de los 80 se vestía muy bien, pero a partir de los 80 la situación cambia. Yo lo achaco a unabúsqueda hacia el centro, en la que empiezan a uniformarse. Izquierda y derecha empiezan a vestir igual, y además por desidia, que es lo peor que te puede pasar cuando te vistes, que lo hagas por convención, no por convicción. Antes había más respeto por el ciudadano y por las personas que te tenían que ver”.

Hay quien sí atisba cierto cambio positivo, como Antoni Gutiérrez-Rubí, asesor de comunicación y consultor político, profesor en distintos másters y autor de diversos libros como ‘Políticas. Mujeres protagonistas de un poder diferenciado’, quien comenta: “La situación ha mejorado en la medida en que permite unos niveles de mayor personalización, logrando que nuestros representantes se vistan más de forma personal, como les gusta sentirse y parecerse. En este sentido se ponen menos un uniforme y se visten más como ellos se ven”.

Según Patrycia Centeno la crisis fue el detonante: “A raíz de la crisis se empezó a exigir a los políticos que se mojasen estilísticamente. En los círculos de izquierdas vemos cómo están intentando definir un poco más su estilo, aunque tampoco lo hacen con gran convicción y esmero”. Aún así, la sensación no acaba por convencer: “Antes eran más conscientes del poder de la imagen, y ahora, aunque estamos en plena época de la imagen, aún tratan con miedo el tema de la moda, se sigue considerando un aspecto superficial y banal, algunos se lo toman un poco en broma”. Misma sensación para el estilista de La Sexta A. Lora, quien cree que “no ha habido un avance notable”. Ni tampoco entre los nuevos: “si vemos a Albert Rivera es un vestuario sencillo y estándar, no creo que haya evolucionado”.

La imagen pesa demasiado y esta acaba por equilibrar la balanza de la mejoría, aunque sea de forma moderada, como señala la blogger Diana Román (Di por Dior): “Todos los políticos son más conscientes que la ropa es una parte muy importante de su imagen y la cuidan, cada uno dentro de su estilo”.

Los “recién” llegados tampoco cambian

Pablo Iglesias Podemos

Podemos y Ciudadanos se han situado a la cabeza de los nuevos partidos —aunque el partido de Albert Rivera se fundó en 2006— y estos han querido transmitir un nuevo mensaje con el que llegar a un público desencantado con las siglas añejas. A través de sus promesas y de las acciones soñadas han ido vendido un cambio que también ha llegado a la imagen, según Antoni Gutiérrez-Rubí: “Las nuevas fuerzas políticas hacen del cambio estético una de sus principales virtudes y atractivos. Es un estilo más personal y menos uniformado. Todos tienen como característica en su puesta en escena un estilo más deportivo, más jovial y sencillo. Abandonan el traje y la corbata en el caso de los hombres, y el traje y chaqueta para las mujeres”.

Este lavado de cara tiene un objetivo claro para Diana Román: “Los “nuevos partidos” se supone que representan a gente que no se sentía representada y una buena forma de comunicar que son distintos es a través de su propia imagen, alejándose de los trajes de chaqueta y formalismos a los que los gobernantes se atan una vez llegados al poder. Por eso no usar corbatas, decir que compras la ropa en Alcampo o presumir de no comprar en grandes multinacionales que usan mano de obra barata es una forma de romper con lo anterior, enmarcar tu discurso y hacer guiños a tus votantes potenciales”.

Podemos es quien más ha intentado romper con esta etiqueta, una diferencia que A. Lora sí reconoce “pero que no aporta nada de estilo, es muy acorde al electorado que ellos representan. La ropa es como muy casual, como muy de calle. Digamos que es una forma de acercarse a gente de izquierdas, más hacia su electorado”.

Albert Rivera Ciudadanos

Aunque no todo lo que venden como nuevo es tal. “El primero que no llevó corbata fue un presidente griego en los años 70”, según Patrycia Centeno. “Los nuevos partidos tampoco están revolucionando el uniforme diplomático occidental. Estos no han aportado nada, algo que es bastante sorprendente y preocupante. Si ellos se presentan como nuevos partidos y nueva política y van vestidos como siempre… Porque por mucho que Albert Rivera se presentase por primera vez con una campaña desnudo y fuese de los primeros en entrar al parlamento catalán con tejanos, y Pablo Iglesias lleve la coleta, no utilicen corbatas… esto ya se hizo en su tiempo”.

“No acabo de concebir los políticos que intentan revolucionar a las masas en americana”

“Desde el siglo XIX el uniforme político está muy estancado”, continúa Centeno. “La evolución ha sido mínima. El traje, la corbata y la camisa parten de la revolución francesa, fueron los sans-culottes los que adoptaron esta vestimenta, y desde entonces las variaciones han sido muy pocas. No acabo de concebir los políticos que intentan revolucionar a las masas en americana”.

Un limbo llamado Pedro Sánchez

No está en un “nuevo partido”, pero ha querido distanciarse de la imagen más tradicional desde que fuera elegido como secretario general del PSOE en julio de 2014. “Pedro Sánchez viene un poco más evolucionado que Zapatero en sus comienzos”, según A. Lora. “Con el caso de Zapatero si que hubo una evolución, de como empezó a como acabó. Se contrató a un grupo de asesores de imagen y evolucionaron un poco a Zapetero. Pedro Sánchez también es algo atractivo, y quieras que no, viste algo más”.

Pedro Sanchez Psoe

El físico de Sánchez juega a su favor, “es su gran ventaja. Casi todo le sienta bien”, según Diana Román. “Pedro Sánchez no llega al extremo de Tsipras de no usar nunca corbata pero es algo con el que no es habitual verlo. Se mueve entre un estilo clásico y cómodo, y con muchas camisas blancas pero lejos de tendencias como los pantalones demasiado pitillos o trajes demasiado pegados”.

“Pedro Sánchez quiere ser sinónimo de cambio y primero quiere hacer los cambios dentro de casa”

Cada líder explota su mejor baza y Pedro Sánchez tiene a su favor “haber sido votado por los militantes”, comenta Antoni Gutiérrez-Rubí, “y por tanto llega al liderazgo político con el aura de un proceso de democracia interna, algo que no pueden decir todos. Llega con una energía renovadora y una gran determinación. Ha asumido que la mejor manera de presentarse a la sociedad como sinónimo de cambio es hacerlos primero dentro de casa”.

“La renovación que socialmente exigía España Pedro Sánchez no la ha acabado de representar”, según Patrycia Centeno. “Sí que es una persona joven, atractiva, pero ha acabado vistiendo como los demás. Lo único es su camisa blanca remangada, algo que también hace el Partido Popular y también Ciudadans. En política hay que distinguirse de algún modo. Si vas vestido como los demás corres el riesgo de que te confundas. Ellos se enfadan mucho de cuando decimos que todos los políticos son iguales, pero al menos van caracterizados así. Pedro Sánchez no ha aportado nada nuevo. Los tejanos y la camisa en mítines o en viajes a pueblos ya lo hacían Fraga o Carrillo en su día”.

La política femenina a examen

A la hora de hablar del estilo de vestir las miradas no se centran de igual manera sobre los dos sexos. Mientras que los hombres pueden incluso acabar fuera del foco, a las mujeres se las examina con lupa y con una crítica sin lógica. “Hay una sobreexposición de las mujeres políticas en donde son más examinadas y evaluadas en su forma de vestir y en todo aquello que afecta a la moda política”, según Antoni Gutiérrez-Rubí. “En general le pasa a todas las mujeres que tienen un tipo de exposición pública”.

“El uniforme político occidental fue pensado por hombres y para hombres, nadie imaginaba que la mujer pudiese alcanzar los primeros puestos de la vida política”

¿Qué diferencias surgen entre ambos vestuarios? “Las mismas que entre los hombres y mujeres de la calle”, según Diana Román. “Las mujeres suelen estar más pegadas a las tendencias, usan un mayor abanico de colores y pueden moverse con relativa comodidad entre diferentes estilos siempre que sean cercanos, en gran parte porque la moda todavía se aprecia como algo frívolo por parte de mucha gente y es algo que se tiene más normalizado como algo femenino”. A. Lora no encuentra “tantas diferencias entre ambos sexos. El otro día le vi un traje a Esperanza Aguirre y era un estilo de un corte regular, y luego el largo, acompañado con americanas, con camisas que ya nadie utilizaba”.

Este tipo de vestuario suele estar limitado. “El uniforme político occidental fue pensado por hombres y para hombres,” afirma Patrycia Centeno, “nadie imaginaba que la mujer pudiese alcanzar los primeros puestos de la vida política. Cuando la mujer llega arriba, además de múltiples problemas se encuentra el estilístico. ¿Me visto como el resto de mis compañeros hombres o intento crear un nuevo patrón para feminizar un poco el uniforme político establecido?”.

Elena Salgado

“Las dos opciones conllevan críticas”, aporta Centeno, “pero es más valiente la segunda con mujeres como Ségolène Royal en las presidenciales francesas de 2007. A partir de aquí hemos visto en España a mujeres como Elena Salgado, la vicepresidenta socialista. Ella fue una de las que cogió un poco este camino”.

“La mayoría de las exigencias hacia la forma de vestir de las políticas vienen desde posiciones absolutamente machistas”

En este proceso de adaptación al vestuario femenino aparecen las interpretaciones personales. “Cuando estás intentando cambiar un uniforme”, comenta Centeno, “el sistema político es conservador por defecto, cualquier mínimo cambio se va a ver como una amenaza. El hombre hace pocas revoluciones ya que su uniforme está establecido, a no ser que se arriesgue mucho, las mujeres puedes hacerla cada día con un simple bolso o un peinado diferente porque marcan un cambio.

“Tampoco creo que ninguna política española haya hecho la revolución en la indumentaria”, según la analista. “Sí que es verdad que cada día nos empezamos a acostumbrar a ver mujeres en políticas con una vestimenta femenina, con colores, accesorios, tacones y joyas que antes no estaban. Aún tenemos muchos clichés machistas, procedemos de una cultura así”.

Esperanza Aguirre Cristina Cifuentes Rajoy

¿Hay una mayor exigencia hacia las mujeres como políticas que a los hombres? “Sí. Y la mayoría de las veces desde posiciones absolutamente machistas”, según Diana Román. Para A. Lora antes podía producirse esta situación, pero ahora “creo que ya no, porque ahora, como hay tanta información de la ropa casi todo el mundo opina, sepa o no opina. A día de hoy se analiza todo más y da igual que sea mujer u hombre, yo creo que están a la par”. Estos análisis constantes a sus estilos les lleva a estar mucho más pendientes de su vestuario de lo que ellas igual desearían”, según Antoni Gutiérrez-Rubí. “Entre otras cosas porque estamos en la sociedad de la imagen y a las mujeres con representación pública las examinan cuádruplemente”.

El cambio de vestuario en los hombres puede darse pero podríamos no apreciarlo, como comenta Patrycia Centeno: “Un político masculino puede haberse cambiado de traje cinco veces durante un día y es difícil de apreciar. En cambio, una mujer cada día puede ir vestida de una manera y ya nos da la impresión que está cambiando constantemente.

¿Hay algún político que arriesgue vistiendo?

La respuesta es negativa de forma general, el riesgo no entra dentro de los armarios de los políticos nacionales. “No existe una figura como puede ser Varoufakis”, según A. Lora, “ese hombre si es un tío elegante, es atractivo, es elegante, se atreve con otra forma de vestir. En la parte femenina Diana Román se queda con Rosa Díez, “es la única en activo que arriesga, aunque para equivocarse la mayoría de las veces”.

David Fernandez Cup

Solo un nombre pone de acuerdo a nuestros expertos: David Fernández, el líder catalán de la CUP. “Él siempre va vestido con camisetas pancartas, y no las oculta”, según Patrycia Centeno. “En Izquierda Unida a veces sí que llevan algo del estilo pero suelen cubrirlas con americanas. Él no se esconde y cada día lleva un lema o una denuncia. Me parece muy valiente porque incluso dentro del Parlament catalán se le ha acusado de indigno”. Antoni Gutiérrez-Rubí destaca a Mónica Oltra por el uso del mismo tipo de camisetas, ella “hace suyos los mensajes de muchas luchas políticas en España”.

Mariano Rajoy Pp

En el bando más inmovilista el consenso es claro: Mariano Rajoy. “Él debe ser de las pocas personas a las que se les ve más cómoda con traje que con vaqueros”, según Diana Román. “Rajoy es muy previsible en todo. Lo que dice, lo que hace y como se viste. Hace esto porque es lo que él cree que le conviene”, asegura Gutiérrez-Rubí.

“Rajoy en la moda es un reflejo de lo que es. No dice nada con la ropa”

Rajoy hace en moda lo que hace en la política, no decir nada con la ropa”, comenta A. Lora. “No mostrar, no opinar. Si siempre rehúye, qué va a hacer en la moda. Rajoy en la moda es un reflejo de lo que es: trajes regular fit, corbatas sin líneas, azules, rojas, todo muy sencillo. Debe de tener 20 trajes similares con corbatas iguales y no sale de ahí. Sería el último que podría innovar”.

“Creo que deberían dar más prestigio a la corbata, a la camisa y al traje”, afirma Centeno. “Si vas clásico hazlo, pero bien, no desprestigiando a una indumentaria. Se puede ir clásico e ir mucho más moderno que una persona con unos jeans. La derecha española ha perdido mucho”.

Los errores más comunes que podrían mejorar

Los políticos españoles no solo ignoran otro tipo de moda más allá de los estándares más clásicos, sino que en estos también acaban cometiendo errores. “No usan las tallas adecuadas. Tanto por exceso como por defecto”, según Diana Román. “No se compran bien los trajes”, comenta A. Lora. “No cuidan el detalle de las mangas. Es como que no encajan bien las americanas. No a todo el mundo le queda bien la talla típica de Zara digamos, hay gente que tiene un cuerpo más complicado”.

“Los políticos no se compran bien los trajes”

Otro de los fallos más habituales es que “No se saben hacer el nudo de la corbata”, según Patrycia Centeno, quien también destaca que “no se hacen los trajes a medida, suelen creer que a medida son más caros, aunque sea mentira. Y por supuesto, la desidia, que te pongas un traje o un vaquero porque te han dicho que tienes que hacerlo. Para lucir la ropa tienes que tener actitud, estilo y carácter y ellos de momento no lo transmiten porque no les interesa”.

¿Cómo podrían mejorar en esta faceta? “Tendrían que tomar consciencia de que la imagen no solo nos habla del respeto que una persona tiene por sí misma, sino por respeto a las personas que nos tienen que gobernar”, según Patrycia Centeno. “Sí apostaran por diseñadores independientes, diseños ecoéticos, por diseños desestructurados sí que veríamos alguna novedad”.

¿España es una excepción?

La moda de la política nacional tiene todo por mejorar en este campo, ¿pero y en comparación a otros países qué tal visten nuestros políticos? “En España estamos en un estándar europeo en toda la gama ideológica. No veo ninguna diferencia singular con otros países”, afirma Gutiérrez-Rubí.

“Cuando se uniforma un país, que es lo que ha ocurrido en muchísimas dictaduras, transmites que solo hay un pensamiento único”

“No estamos en la Champions League, pero estamos cerca…”, comenta A. Lora. “Entre los 3 primeros no estamos, eso lo tengo claro, pero tampoco estamos entre los peores. En cambio, en la monarquía vamos bien. Creo que nos representan bien. Si por ejemplo Pablo Iglesias fuera presidente del gobierno me gustaría ver cómo iría ir a los actos cuando tuviera que ver a otros representantes. Me sorprende. No sé si iría como el presidente de Bolivia, Evo Morales, con su jersey de punto. Eso es muy auténtico. Lo suyo es que siguiera un poco así. Chocaría ver a un presidente de gobierno con coleta, yo no lo veo mal”.

En cambio, Patrycia Centeno es más negativa en su visión: “Lo hacemos bastante mal. En especial si nos comparamos con los americanos, que son los reyes del marketing y esto lo tienen muy bien establecido y estudiado. Allí no podrían salir con las pintas que salen los de aquí. En España y en Europa no nos estamos diferenciando de nadie. Cuando se uniforma un país, que es lo que ha ocurrido en muchísimas dictaduras, transmites que solo hay un pensamiento único. Quizá esta falta de pluralidad ideológica es la que nos ha llevado a la crisis que tenemos”.

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